BURGUNDY REPORT – Bill Nanson
2018 Pouilly-Fuissé
3.6.2020
At the two extremes of Burgundy, the chardonnay has provided much of interest in 2018.
There is much excellent Chablis to the north. To the south, bordering Beaujolais and wearing a little more depth and concentration, though still with super balance are the 2018 wines of Pouilly-Fuissé. Of course, on average, you will have to pay a few more euros a bottle when compared to 1er cru Chablis, and for the last wines tasted here you could be drinking grand cru Chablis, but there are many super bottles to be found and enjoyed from this vintage – I was impressed by the consistency that they showed.
There are actually 3 ‘Pouillys’ but given that Pouilly-Fuissé accounts for nearly 90% of their combined production, I chose not to include either Pouilly-Loché or Pouilly-Vinzelles.
The wines…
What a great set of wines! Two were corked – that’s such a shame when DIAM and others seem so effective. What’s important to get across is how consistent the quality was too – from ‘generic’ contract Pouilly-Fuissé to wines with important climat names on their labels. Good as the selection of Chablis was, elsewhere in this report, I think this selection was even better – despite you know how I love to have freshness in my wine!
2018 Jean Loron, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Vieux Murs An un- (domaine) branded cork. Lots of depth to this aroma – some oak in support but subtly done – eventually becoming quite floral too. Supple, wide – certainly concentrated. The texture starts silky but there’s also a little tannin if you look for it. Layered flavour in the middle and finish. A wine that needs to unfurl more – but hardly a complaint for such a young thing. It will be excellent, perhaps better than that, but you should have a little patience.
Courtesy the growers syndicate, the four areas that can produce Pouilly-Fuissé
